Hi from Lifou
We spent a pleasant few days in We, the capital of Lifou and centre of government for the Loyalty Islands.
We had good chats with people about the Kanak culture and history. David fixed the electrics on the yacht belonging to the manager of the Drehu Hotel- top hotel on Lifou & owned by the provincial government. It is good to see the provincial government provides and runs many of the facilities, cutting out "middle men" and thus providing a good return for the people.
We did plenty of walking, 'though did pick up a lift. We also discovered a couple of bus services (good given the Lonely Planet said there are none). Indeed, the Lonely Planet is proving to be less good than normal so we will be sending them a pile of corrections and additions to join the same sort of thing from Vanuatu last year.
It is interesting that over 1,000 yachts check into Customs in Noumea each year. Of these, it would appear that a maximum of 100 or so visit the Isle of Pines and only a few dozen come here to the Loyalty Islands.
On Tuesday, we travelled the 43NM around to the other side of the island and stopped at Xepenehe (they are all acute e's for anyone who would like to pronounce it). Bought some excellent bread from the Boulangerie. As there was no beach, they have built an intriguing dinghy landing stage with a curved steel bridge over it. Perhaps the classiest landing spot wew have seen in the PAcific.
After a rough night at anchor, we moved the the South end of this giant Baie de Santal (Sandalwood Bay). There is another Aussie yacht here plus one from Noumea. The most yachts we have seen for a while. The water is crystal clear, the beaches are white sand, the village is a mixture of modern and traditional Kanak buildings. We went in search of Le Grande Chef or Le petite Chef today but did not find either of them. Perhaps better luck tomorrow. We snorkelled for almost two hours. We have seen better, but it was good none the less. We are rather spoiled when it comes to underwater beauty. As we finished snorkelling, a young lad made a coconut sailing boat and launched it. It sailed off into the ocean, passing about a metre from us.
During the day, the school kids came down for sailing and kayaking lessons in the Bay. School was never so good when we were kids. Of course, the kept straying out to the yachts for a closer sticky-beak. t is sad that this culture used to be a sea going one but that has now almost disappeared and now they are learning again through school and plastic kayaks and sail boats. Very good it is now happening but very different from PNG, Solomons, Vanuata and others where kids are paddling and swimming as soon as they can walk. This afternoon, we went ashore and before long, the Boulangerie lady drove up in her little Citroen and sold us a loaf od still warm bread. The whole back of her car was stacked with loaves. So now we have had bread delivered by boat, by car and we have bought it on foot.
That's all for now. The wind is getting up (a lot) but this is a well protected direction from the trade winds. We have been having fantastic sailing winds and excellent weather. Far better than last year's sailing season in these parts and further North.
All the best from Dave & Penny
