Port Boise to Mare
We were up at 0140AM on Wednesday morning 8th August. The aim was to have current with us and friendly waves in the notorious Havannah Passage and then arrive in time to see the nasty reefs on the island of Mare.
The first part of the plan did not work out because we had up to 2kts of current against us in the Havannah Passage. Fortunately, the wind was pretty powerful as well and we were doing over 7kts through the water so the adverse current did not slow us down too drastically.
We had a boisterous 72NM sail to Mare. It was quite rough but we roared along averaging around 7kts and got to Mare in 11hrs- well under our best possible estimate. We anchored off a white sand and pebble beach in absolutely crystal clear water. It is the clearest water we have seen anywhere in our travels.
We were pretty tired after the early start- even though we did not do much on the sail- just small adjustments to Flinders, the wind vane. So, a rare afternoon sleep was in order.
Next day, we headed off to walk to Tadine, the main village. First stop was a remarkable "Natural Aquarium". It is a large pool, with steep sides. It is fed from the sea via underground tunnels which are over 200M long. There is good coral growing in the pool and many small brightly coloured fish. Apparently sea turtles sometimes visit.
Then there were the caves in the sheer limestone cliffs along the side of the road. Large stalagtites and stalagmites were clearly visible. It would be a climbing and abseiling paradise but any other access would be nigh on impossible.
Next, we came to the grave of Yeiwene Yeiwene who was 2IC to Jean-Marie Tjibaou of the FLNKS (representing the Kanaks). They were assassinated in 1989. The grave was also a memorial for the reconciliation between the families of the dead men and the (also dead) assassin. Very moving and lots of other history tied up with it.
Next, we saw a "Trou Bleu"- much like the natural aquarium- but very much deeper. Basically, a steep sided hole fed from the sea several hundred metres away by hidfden underground tunnels. There was a rope in case you fell in (no other way out with the sheer sides).
Tadine itself was a cute little village, with a couple of 20 person Churches, a supermarket, a good College and good looking Primary School. We checked out the small harbour and determined that it could fit one or two yachts for Market Day (the next day).
We had lunch at a mobile "restaurant"- actually a battered old van. We ordered and then sat on the grass and finally a couple of seats which became free. Everyone was EXTREMELY friendly. Unlike Noumea, we were the only white faces around. The food took about 50mins to come but that was okay. We picked up snippets of the local language "nengone" as well as French). NO Anglaise around here.
Then the long slog home. Dave was confident of a lift- considering it would be like the Isle of Pines. But no lifts came. So, a pleasant 11-12Km walk.
That night, we saw a yacht come in and anchor in a treacherous area nearby. How they avoided running onto reef is a mystery.
Bright and early Friday morning, we up anchored (after disentangling the chain from several Coral Bommies) and anchored in the tine harbour at Tadine. The Market was excellent. Prices were good and there was a reasonable variety of goods. We struggled a bit with the French prices but muddled through with much laughter and giggling.
That afternoon, the other yacht came into the harbour and anchored nearby. It is a NZ boat (but originally from Germany). We gave the three fellas all the local info that we had and they went into "town". When they returned, they decided to anchor closer to the wharf. Like them, we thought this was okay because the inter-island ferry had just left and a coastal freighter had been there the day before. WRONG!
We were going to get up at 0540 this morning and head for Lifou, the next main island 52NM away. At about 0525 there were huge engine noises and much splashing. A freighter, the Havannah, had arrived and was turning into the wharf. it missed us by heaps but came within metres of the NZ boat which stupidly was showing no lights and had their dinghy floating a long way behind. We felt rather sorry fro the crew of the freighter who had to work hard to get into the wharf with these other folk in the way AND not showing the legal lights.
We up-anchored and headed for Lifou. For the first time we had extremely light winds and had to motor-sail. We had great assistance from the Equatorial Current and got into Lifou at about 1530- ironically, beating the Havannah by about 30mins. We are glad they did not have to tangle with two yachts in the same day.
A helpful man from French Guyana helped us upon arrival. There had been no response to our email to the Harbourmaster nor to repeated radio calls. This is because he has gone fishing for the weekend. Yes, it is a VERY laid back place!
Since then, Lulu has returned from fishing and helped us out. We also met the Tourism man (Eduardo) who was riding his old bike down the road. We had a great chat. He is a Kanak who studied at a French University, spent 15 years in Europe, has been to Australia and done lots of things. We will nbe meeting him again!
All the best,
Dave & Penny
