The Land of Wait Awhile & the Spitfire
Friday 27th July, we tacked our way back to Noumea into a strong South Easterly and a solid chop. We were hopeful of getting our sail and the part from Quebec- which had arrived into Noumea 10AM the day before. The sail was not ready and DHL needed paper work for Customs but had not got around to asking for it even 36hrs after the part arrived.
The few delays we have experienced have added up and we have now decided not to circumnavigate Grande Terre but rather to head for the Isle of Pines, the Loyalty Islands and the East Coast of Grand Terre and explore these in reasonable detail. If we headed up the West Coast, given the weather, it is likely that we will run out of time.
As we were going to be "stuck" in Noumea for a few more days, we decided to rent a car and head North for the weekend. We decided this could be a 36th Anniversary present, a few days early. We would also be able to explore the West Coast from the land- given we would now only be exploring some of it from the sea.
We had a great time- covering over 600Km. The first night, we stopped in a small village which was at the heart of the strife between the French and the Kanaks in 1878 and again 1984. We stayed in an old prison (modernised somewhat) and really enjoyed it. Dinner was a surprise. We ordered at the plastic covered tables with paper napkins etc- a typical cafe atmosphere. The ceiling is decorated with over 5,000 caps and hats from all over the world. Most are baseball-style caps but there are fireman hats, gendarme hats and many others. David had a bit of trouble ordering the wine- they kept trying to give us different kinds of beer! Anyway, after a while, a lady came and requested us to follow her- big mystery! We went to the back of the establishment to find a very large dining hall filled with antiques and pleasant decorations. It was also a part of the old prison- now a fine banqueting hall. The food and service were just as good- a big surprise.
Anyway, by the end of our weekend excursion, we had a much better idea of the West Coast and saw the South, and Northern Provinces.
On Monday, our sail arrived and the sailmaker seems to have done a good job. She missed some of the uV affected stitching but we were able to fix this with our awl (useful present from son Paul). DHL advised that the package should be cleared that afternoon and available Tuesday.
Tuesday morning, there was a knock on the hull and the package arrived. There was a very strange fee of 55 Francs (around A$0.75) which we happily paid. Then, we were OFF! Paid the marina people and topped up with fuel (we have used very little since Coffs Harbour). We headed SE to Bonne Anse, about 35NM away. We had an excellent sail and saw a giant sea turtle and a Mackeral flying high from the water- but not onto our fishing line. We even got right through the Woodin Canal without motoring (it is usually protected from the wind). Halfway down, we were amazed to be "buzzed" by a Spitfire aircraft! It was a little above mast height and flying the other direction. Wish we could have got a photo but it all happened too fast. It had RAF roundels and who knows where it came from? Maybe New Zealand?
We overnighted in Bonne Anse ("Good Cove"). The forecast was for South Easterlies- not the best for getting SE to the Isle of Pins but good once we got there.
We were just settling down when a French yacht arrived and anchored right in front of us- drifting back over our anchor. They did not even "test" the anchor to bed it ina nd make sure it was secure. We tried to communicate/protest but to no avail. Well, we would awaken them early with our horn if we could not get our anchor up for an early departure.
Dave & Penny
