Tuesday, 29 August 2006

Gomai and Harapa

We spent a pleasant couple of days at Gaomai and half a day at Harapa. Those of our friends and former workmates will recall the "Gomai Radio" which a number of generous people made possible for this remote village at the top of Shortland Island. The villagers told us that they are now "part of the world"...."feel connected to the rest of the world" etc. No more do they paddle for 12hrs for events that were cancelled days ago. No more do the injured and sick lack medical attention. Supplies can be easily solicited. The Primary School is now connected in a number of ways not previously possible. Examinations are now coordinated for Year 6 and critical school supplies (such as books and chalk) can be obtained easily. The list goes on. The radio is being very well cared for and is looked after as a prized possession. So, thanks again to all those who contributed just over three years ago. Your names are all inscribed on top of the radio. The community put on a dinner to say "thanks" and we had a great time chatting to people. Unfortunately, as is the custom, the women who worked so hard to prepare the food sat outside while the guests and men were inside. Harapa was the next village along as we continued to circumnavigate Alu ("Shortland Island"). This is a Kiribati ("Gilbertese") village. Anchoring was easy but getting ashore difficult because of the extensive reef system. A boy came out in a canoe to guide us in and we anchored the dinghy and then waded a couple of hundred metres over reef. Harapa is exceedingly neat, tidy and clean. In fact, we have spent a bit of time with Doctor Sandy who is here for three months from St Vincents Hospital in Sydney. She had also visited Harapa and was really impressed by the level of hygene. Apparently this has been promoted by the Clinic Nurse who awards a prize for the cleanest and tidiest dwelling (she does this from her own meagre wages). Harapa is also unusual because it is a village of United Church, SDA, Catholic and Ba'Hai AND all the dwellings are mixed in together- no lines of demarcation here. The different faiths worship separately but on big occasions all come together. Harapa has gained the commitment of neighbouring villages to build a COmmunity High School (Called "Alu West") at Harapa. This will be built by working bees from all the villages. They have no money, so it will be built from bush materials with some help from a chain saw. They have gained government approval and two teachers will start next year. Lots of energy and enthusiasm, even if there is no money. These are definitely "glass is half full" people. When we were walking back from the existing primary school and location of the High School, Charlie spotted a white carcass in the stream. "Is that a pig or something similar?". No was the reply- it's a crocodile without its skin. It turns out that a few days before, someone had come down from Bougainville and killed four crocodiles with and axe. He then skinned them and took the skins back to Bougainville. No swimming here...... Unfortunately, we left Harapa very late and made it back to Nila (completing our circumnavigation of Alu) in the dark. On Sunday, there was a big celebration of Charlie's 25 years as a priest. There was a big Mass in the Nila CHurch. There were suitable banners on the walls. The church was decorated with flowers everywhere. There was even incense- something extremely rare except on really big occasions and even rarer in the Solomon ISlands. That night, there was a special dinner with a Silver Jubilee cake. The girls put on a singing and dancing display. The visiting medical team (Dr Sandy and Silverio screening for the eye specialist Dr Painter who is about to visit) also came. Despite the overall loss of about 10Kg each (so far), we all ate a little too well in Nila. This was assisted by the generous gifts of mud crabs, lobsters and reef fish! There would be some opportunities for our ENT friend Peter here; one little girl was deaf because of an insect in one ear and wax buildup in the other. Unfortunately, Dr Sandy did not have the appropriate equipment nor did the clinic. Still, they are working on it with gentle and natural solvents. That's it for now. We have been working out how to get back 85NM straight into the wind so we can have Charlie back in Gizo for his return home (via PNG). The CREW