Moli
We had a good run to Moli, with strong winds but no squalls. It started to really pour with rain when we were about an hour out. All land (and reefs) disappeared in the whiteout so we were pleased to have the GPS and scanning sonar as there were many (charted) reefs in the area. Moli is about 100acres in size and separated from Choiseul by a 75metre channel. The tide runs at up to 3kts in this channel. The island is owned by the Catholic Mission here and has a Church, dwellings, sports ground (rougher than anything you will find in Australia!) and places for training and meetings. We ran some of the "Hey Dad" training here in 2004 and really enjoyed meeting locals and people from villages all around Choiseul. While we were at Moli, the wind howled for many days and we had torrential rain. The rain was so heavy that we pumped dry one of our 200L water tanks and then refilled in with fresh rainwater in a matter of hours. The rubber ducky (aka "washing machine") filled with enough water to do all our clothing. Of course, drying it was a bit of a problem, solved when the rain eased off and the howling wind blew the water out of the clothes. The locals kept asking us if this was a cyclone and seemed surprised when we said it wasn't even a gale. While at Moli, we celebrated our 35th wedding anniversary. Charlie said a private Mass for us and also cooked a gourmet meal in the evening. Thanks Charlie! While at Moli, David drafted a paper on correct use of solar panels in the Solomon Islands and did some practical training in battery maintenance. The locals were celebrating St Dominic's Day (they are Dominicans) and they kindly invited us to the feasting and celebrations. We walked around to the windward side of the island and marvelled at the big seas and howling winds. We wanted to sail up to the top of Choiseul and part way down the other side to Sirovanga. No motorised canoes were leaving or arriving. In the end, we decided to leave. After all, the winds and the seas were not too big for Pastime, which has endured worse. We planned to set off on Tuesday 8th August for Sirovanga (a place we have not previously visited). The Sisters from Moli asked if we could take them to Taro, the Provincial Capital, which is located at the top of the Island. We agreed to do this once we ascertained that a yacht should be able to get in. So, we ended up with four extra passengers- two for Taro and two for Sirovanga. Unfortunately, it was a little rough getting to Taro. On the good-news front, we had 2.5kts of current with us, so we sped along and were soon inside the reef leading to the small island of Taro. No-one can work out why they put a Provincial Capital in this spot (it is from the British Colonial days). Anyway, we were delighted to find an easy anchorage off the main part of Taro. There had been nothing in the cruising guide and the US Sailing Directions urged "Caution and Local Knowledge". We must have been the first yacht there for quite a time because there was a really big crowd on the jetty. We anchored with 32kt winds but the waves were okay because of the protecting reef. It took a while, but the two sisters were taken off by aluminium canoe (landing the rubber ducky at Taro was a no-no at low tide because of coral reef everywhere on shore). One of them had been quite seasick and was pleased to reach terra-firma. We set off again for Sirovanga. Amazingly, we had the same strong current down the other side of the island! Quite remarkable to score twice with current in completely different directions. The seas were rough at the start and we were pleased we were running downwind/ A while later, we had the protection of Choiseul and raced along in strong winds and no swell/sea. Sirovanga is not mentioned in the cruising guides but one of the sisters came from the village, so we had local knowledge on board. We found the excellent reef entrance and very deep access to a really good anchorage in mud, near the mouth of a river. Okay Charlie- there are no crocodiles in this one so swimming is okay! The people had seen us coming and George, a local boat driver, was sitting inside the reef to make sure we got to the anchorage okay. He also took off the two sisters. The only thing wrong with Sirovanga was the difficult dinghy anchorage. This was a long "jetty" laboriously built out of coral chunks, piled up over many years. We would throw out a dinghy anchor 10 metres from the coral rocks, then wade to the rocks with the dinghy painter. This kept the dinghy anchored in deep water but still accessible. While at Sirovanga, David saw a big (over 1 metre) Kingfish leap 10 metres into the air! It was chasing a smaller fish, which only got about 3 metres up. The Kingfish was airborne for seconds. Casting a lure around the same spot failed to catch anything. Fr. Simon who lives at Sirovanga has a house 150 steps up the side of a steep cliff. The views are absolutely fantastic- across the lagoon, the reef and then the ocean. Due North, there is no land until you hit Siberia! Simon has a keen interest in the local mariners; he keeps the beacons in the lagoon (a government responsibility) in good order and has a beacon light on his house for those navigating in the dark. It is the only working navigation light we have found anywhere in the Solomon Islands ou tside of Honiara. The local people have been building the church (also in a spectacular location) over the past few years. They have carried the timber, cement, coral and other materials up those 150 steps. Quite a feat. The sisters live nearby, but their house has been devoured by white ants and is being rebuilt. The local clinic is falling down around their ears (white ants and the environment) but handles an amazing 1,000 cases per month. When we arrived, the clinic had lost it's fiberglass canoe which apparently drifted away in the very strong winds (which also brought down huge trees in the vicinity). We hope they find their canoe, but this seems very unlikely as the next land in the prevailing downwind direction is New Ireland in PNG. Perhaps someone will have a windfall canoe wash up on their beach? Fortunately, the clinic outboard was not on the boat when it blew away. However, it is going to be very difficult for the medical staff to get to other villages or evacuate urgent cases. The water was murky in the lagoon because of heavy rain and the river, so again we caught no fish (but still had some left). We were pleased and surprised to find a small community-run store owned by the local people. We were big spenders on some Solomon tinned tuna (just in case the Kingfish runs out...), dry biscuits, baking powder, a fishing lure and other bits and pieces. On our final day, Simon and the Sisters kindly had a farewell lunch for us and loaded us up with giant paw-paws and vegetables to keep us alive on the boat. The timing was excellent as we hoped for current with us again and planned to overnight in Taro before heading off to the village of Toumoa (home of the Toumoa Bell). We had an excellent run around to Taro and were able to buy buns and some more bananas at the Market on Taro the next morning. Well, Toumoa- getting there and being there- will be the subject of another blow. We are now at about 3,200NM (getting towards 6,000Km) since we left Sydney. The CREW
