The Russell Islands
The Russell Islands are made up of 99 islands and
islets. Some very large and some
very small. It is a beautiful spot, though
difficult to find good anchorages as the
bottom is very deep and then comes
up to shallow reef right at the shoreline.
The Copra Plantations are all
inoperative. Some, because the workers have been on
strike for two years
while others are abandoned. Some of the former workers are
still working
abandoned plantations and making much more money than when they
received
salaries. Not surprising when the money is staying here and not going out
of
the country.
We sailed past beautiful lagoons in the North part of the
islands and took
many photographs. There were some good anchorages in a
couple of Bays fed by rivers,
but as these were crocodile territory, we
avoided them.
We did find a good spot to anchor at the head of a bay, in
just 3 metres of water
with good snorkelling quite close. We were a little
nervous as there were sometimes
coral "Bommies" just 30cm beneath the keel.
Still, all was well and we were more
relaxed swimming away from the
crocodile haunts.
We met "Casper", the wise chief of a nearby village.
He told us quite a bit about
how he was leading his village and we were
impressed. Indeed, other villagers we
spoke with were impressed by him
('though they did not all favor his prohibition
on drinking and smoking for
health reasons).
Finally, the time came to leave the Russell Islands and
head for the Marovo Lagoon
(described by Mitchener as the eighth wonder of
the world).
Our plan was to go to Peava, on the East Coast of Nggatokae
Island. One of our
Cruising Guides suggested that "...a fast yacht could
make this passage during
daylight hours..." and we managed to do this quite
easily. The sailing was very
pleasant and we caught a large shark but no
fish. AS usual, extricating the lure
from the shark was a difficult process.
The entrance into Peava was a 10 metre wide and 3.2metre deep gap in the
reef blasted
by explosives in times past. Just as well we did not reach it
after dark! Peava is in
a beautiful enclosed lagoon with a backdrop of steep
mountain and jungle behind. A
little like Visale on Guadalcanal. The lagoon
was 20metres deep everywhere with a
fine sandy bottom- excellent for
anchoring.
A few people paddled out to see us but we did not go ashore
as this was but an
overnight stop.
The Crew.
