Pastime of Sydney- 2006 Adventures

We were pleased to leave Sola with the dust and very rocky anchorage, not to mention plenty of flies. Our Passage planning software suggested we would get to Santa Cruz in 7hrs less than 2 days, but we tought it would take more like 48hrs, so we left at 10AM. The wind was strong and the waves about 2 metres on a 3 metre swell. Soon, we were reefed down to storm sails and still doing 7kts! We rattled off 145NM the first 24hrs and it became apparent we would arrive at night. Not good, as we had a choice of a very narrow passage or many more miles to a much wider one. We decided to go for the narrow passage and use the GPS, scanning sonar, paper charts and electronic charts. We would "back out" and go the long way if the water was too shallow. Things went well until we were 25NM from Santa Cruz and had an ETA of 2230 for the channel. We were hit by a very big squall with howling winds and torrential rainfall- all from the North (where we were headed). We hove to with David above and P/C/W below. After an hour, we were able to get under way but close hauled in very light winds whereas the 25-3-knot Trade Winds had evaporated! In the end, we motor sailed for many hours and negotiated the narrow channel in moonlight. The scanning sonar was fantastic in side scanning mode to keep us in the deepest part of the channel. The channel is supposed to be 13metres deep but an old chart from 1895 shows depths down to 7 metres and extremely narrow in places. Amazingly, the ancient chart was most accurate of all with the electronic chart again being the worst and showing us cruising over reefs at some points. Then we had to find somewhere to anchor in the dark. Not easy in this 200metre deep Bay with steep sides. Finally, using the sonar, we found a spot and anchored at 0500. We then fell into an exhausted sleep. Some hours later, we cooked up our remaining fish and tidied up over a leisurely breakfast. We were at anchor in the Solomons (so a bottle of champagne went into the fridge). The day was beautiful and this Bay (Gracioza Bay) is absolutely beautiful! It is wonderfully protected and perhaps the calmest anchorage it could be possible to have. Of course, we met many locals before the time came to clear customs, immigration and Quarantine. We sailed over to the small Provincial of Lata and by the time we arrived, there was a crowd of around 100 people waiting on and around the wharf. It soon became apparent that tying to the concrete wharf was fraught with danger as the wind and waves would have pounded us to pieces. We anchored in 26metres (very deep) with the stern close to the reef. Will and Penny stayed on board in case the anchor dragged while Dave and Charlie went ashore. We soon met "John Young", who was "Just Strolling" and offered to show us short cuts, government buildings etc. We shook so many hands and said "Halo" to so many people... Well, we found Customs and Immigration okay, but there have been no officials here for over a year! Penny had received emails from Honiara in February confirming that Lata is still a Port of Entry. Well, seems the left hand does not know what the right hand is doing in the Solomons. So, we cannot clear in and William cannot leave the country next week (for Sydney -> Borneo) because he is not legally here! Ah well, change of plans. David & Charlie went to the Police Station and we handed over passport numbers etc. The Police chief said he'd fax the details to Honiara and tell them we are detained due to bad weather. He sees no problem with doing whatever we want to- even so far as not doing Customs etc in Gizo! ZHowever, we have decided to go to Santa Ana, Makira, Guadalcanal and Honiara where we will officially clear in and despatch Will to Australia. Lata is very cut off, with all recent flight cancelled and only the occasional supply boat. The stores have many empty shelves though a few things such as oil, pegs and soap are available but little else. We met quite a few locals and spent some hours in "Tok Tok". Charlie was delighted to meet a PNG policeman, here on assignment, so they could converse in PNG pidgin. We also met the RAMSI policeman, a Federal policeman from Adelaide, here advising and training the SI police. We ascertained that though there are a couple of crocodiles here, there have been no attacks. So, no-one should mention this to Charlie's mother! A Swiss yachtsman was eaten from his dinghy on the island South of here (while his helpless wife watched on). Now Charlie, what is all the big splashing over on the shore? From here, we will explore the North side of the island and then undertake the 450KM to Santa Ana island off the South of Makira, probably on Sunday. Pastime Crew