Pastime of Sydney- 2006 Adventures

We are now anchored in the tiny bay called Lenakel on the South side of the island of Tanna. It's called a Port, but very marginal. We got in at 19:30 Australian time on Saturday night. Saturday, the wind got styronger and stronger until it was around 25-30kts with roughish seas on a confused 3 metre swell. We had thought we were about to achieve our first ever "dry" passage but it was not to be. We took two large waves over the side, spaced about an hour apart (or the time it takes to change into dry clothes). Of course, each time, the wave selected the opening NEXT to the clear plastic screen we had on the windward side. Then came the third wave which broke from astern. Wet again, but no matter, we were surging towards the destination, fully reefed, at between 7 and 8 knots. We did about 150NM that last day and arrived four hours faster than our best estimate. Then came some planning headaches. We turned on the electronic charts and pulled out the hardcopy chart. There was at least 1Km difference between them! The sole navigational beacon, a flashing light was in yet another (third) position in the Navaid database on the GPS! So, we decided to arrive at a position that was safe on all charts and then take bearings to the only landmark, the flashing beacon. Imagine what we thought when we reached the designated point and found that there no longer appears to be a working light! Using depth contours and our scanning sonar, we determined that the hardcopy chart was correct and carefully felt our way into the very exposed anchorage. The anchor held well and we had a very difficult night's sleep with three metre swells arcing into the bay and under us- rolling the boat mercilessly. The un-wonderful electronic chart showed us calmly going over the reef, up the beach and onto the main street of the town! So much for the quality of electronic charts. A kilometre out. Next morning, with daylight, the scanning sonar and two people on the bow, we made our way into a small, moderately protected spot with some Bommies. We had to re-anchor three times. Someone came out in a dugout and showed us where we could anchor. Very close to a nasty reef (about 50 metres away). We did this and then ran out a second bow anchor at an angle in case the wind or tidal currents changed. We've now been here for 36hrs and all seems well. Tomorrow, we visit Yasaur the world's most accessible volcano. We have also met quite a few people and had a 4km trek uphill to the Police station to clear in. We have met Quarantine and Immigration but not yet Customs (missing in action). A local, Peter, kindly took Will in his dugout and gave him a guided tour of Peter's village- including Tok-Tok with all the relatives. He took away our pile of washing and his wife Mary will wash them for us! Now, if only we could get the wretched watermaker working again, we'd be totally right. Still, we have a week's water supply left and it MIGHT rain one day. Well, we're about to go to the markets again and perhaps catch some of the squid under the boat. Oh, the water temperature is 26.2deg which is wonderful. Visibility underwater is at least 30 metres. All the best, The CREW