Barging on ANJA

We were not sure if we would enjoy the Seine, fearing that it would fall into the category of "things we must get through". We were about to embark on almost 100 kilometres of very busy river with 8 very large locks, and according to the books, very few places to stop.

We visualized an unrelentingly urban and industrial landscape- but we were wrong. Certainly the locks were big and the barges enormous but the lock- keepers and barge drivers were helpful and professional, so there were no tough moments. We were lucky in being small enough to tuck into the locks with the big boats and made very fast progress. Our crew also did well and we were pleased to have the extra help of two experienced sailors.

It seems that this is the area where wealthy Parisians have in the past built their country/ holiday dwellings and we saw some very grand buildings and beautiful gardens running down to the river. We were successful in locating places to stop on the river, not up to the standard of the pontoons in Lagny and Meaux, but neverthless comfortable for the night.

We had one very interesting experience in the giant 180metre x 16metre locks (not as big as Saone River 186x22metres). We entered a lock, following on the sterns of a couple of other large barges. But, unusually, there was already a boat inside, facing the wrong way. It was a small fiberglass motor cruiser and it appears that the engine had failed while in the lock. While the lock was filling, a ladder was producd by the lock keeper and the motor cruiser was tied to the bow of the barge in front of us. Then, when the lock opened, the huge barge pushed the motor cruiser out of the lock and then gently deposited it onto the side of the river above the lock. Then it powered away in front of us. Fantastic and professional effort.

Arriving at St Mammes we are back into "known territory" as we came this way at the beginning of our cruise in April. Again we tied up at St Mammes on the corner of the River Seine where it enters the Canal du Loing. It was only metres from the spot we occupied months ago.

This time we had an added bonus of a "Brocante" (second hand market) which was advertised for the next morning. Sure enough we woke to the sound of quiet voices and tent pegs being hammered in, then the sound of more voices as people started to wander in to buy from the stalls set up right next to the boat. In fact, activity commenced at 3AM!

We did well again with Val and Mike's help- David found a manual coffee grinder and a vice and Penny located another jigsaw as she and Val had polished off the one bought at the brocante in La Ferte sous Jouarre.

From St Mammes we headed 22 kilometres along the Canal du Loing so that Val and Mike could experience a smaller canal and manual locks, then back to St Mammes to farewell them at the train station, where they caught the suburban service to Paris en route to their ultimate destination in Reims. They had great difficulty buying the tickets for the full trip as the ticket machine accepts only coins or French credit cards, a problem previously encountered by our guests but overcome because there was a ticket window- but not available here.

Pictures show:

Chinatown on the Seine (2)

A Seine barrage adjoining the locks

Paris Suburbs

Seine River

Pleasant houses (2)

Seine pusher with 2 barges (biggest seen 160metres)

House (this and all following houses are on the Seine)

Pleasant chateau

Seine house (many)

Rescue of the motor cruiser

Brocante at St Mammes