Barging on ANJA

Dormans was the last "Champagne " town on our route. Chateau- Thierry, while still in the Valley of the Marne, is actually in Picardie although there are still Champagne- growing villages along the banks. Eventually we pass beyond the last of the grape vines and find the river even more forested than before. Soon we are into yet another area, Seine et Marne, where we tie up on an excellent pontoon at La Ferte sous Jouarre. Many of the towns on this stretch provide excellent facilities for boats so at lunchtime and in the evening we have been able to find pontoons or quays, often with electricity and water.

La Ferte sous Jouarre was the grindstone capital of the world in the 19th century. Now grindstones are not seen as so important but judging from the neat streets and excellent facilities, the town has moved on to other endeavours.

Our guide book suggested that from the village we should visit Jouarre, about 3 kms away, to visit the Benedictine Monastery founded in the 7th century. This sounded like a good idea so we set off on our bikes to go there on a beautiful sunny 30 degree day. I should have been warned by the name of our departure point: "Sous" means under. So, if we started "under" Jouarre, we were likely to end up "over" it. Sure enough we went straight up the hill, on a busy road with cars whipping past at 70kph. David takes such situations in his stride. Penny walked her bike the 3 kms up but had a good fast trip down later.

At the Monastery the first discovery was that this was for nuns, and had always been so; it is still active though from time to time over the last 1400 years it has had to close because of wars and religious persecution. We enjoyed a visit to the Romanesque Tower, built in the 12th century but with elements dating back to the 7th. Unfortuntaely our timing did not allow a visit to the 7th century crypts or the 180 year old cheese cellars (Brie is the speciality here). The crytpts are the oldest in Europe. We will have to return another year.

La Ferte sous Jouarre also allowed us to enjoy a newly discovered interst: there was a vide grenier (they called it a "Brocant Jumelage" ). We bought ourselves some very attractive cut glass tumblers and a jigsaw puzzle, each 2 euros, and a current road atlas of Europe for 3 euros. We are not usually impulse buyers but these fairs seem to get under our skin. There is also a very relaxed and happy atmosphere. For many of the stallholders, it is an opportunity to catch up with friends and have a lively discussion. Sometimes, it can take a little while to attract someone's attention and make a purchase! When we bought the 6 cut glass tumblers for 2 euros (a real bargain), the gentleman was very apologetic he could not offer a bag ("sac") as well! We always carry plenty of bags so this is not a problem.

The weather has warmed up to its current 30 degrees so that Paul and Angela have frequently enjoyed an afternoon swim. It has been great having their company and Paul's skilful assistance. David and Paul did some scrubbing of marine growth from the rudder on one particularly hot day (32deg). We are happy swimming in the rivers, but not in the canals.

After four days where the temperature went above 30degrees each day, we have returned to days about 22 degrees.

Pictures show:

The signets (baby swans) from April are now almost fully grown. Some have become white and others not.

Picking the grapes.

A road in the town of Dormans

The town of Chateau-Thierry, seen from the ancient chateau.

Huge water wheel from the old Mill at Dormans. 8 metres in diameter, it was in use for 200 years!

Commercial barges rafted four deep and awaiting loading on the Marne River.

The memorial commemorating the two WWI victories on the Marne and those who lost their lives in the war.

An unusual cemetery at Charly sur Marne. The beautifully trimmed cyprus trees are all pruned into the shape of bottles.

Best Regards, Penny and Dave