Barging on ANJA

While at Reims, we decided to try and get diesel fuel. We had not filled up for almost 1,000km. There are very few places to refuel. We had done it in Lyon and then "topped up" in St Jean de Losne.

We saw nowhere listed in our charts but did discover that a fuel company in Reims will deliver to boats if they bought sufficient quantity. So, we found the phone number and called them up. They said they would send a tanker but that it could not come for a couple more days. A little inconvenient, but we agreed. Then, they called back a little later (when David was in the shower!) and said they could come straight away and would that suit us? It certainly did. We were a little nervous that the might find difficulty locating us, but all was well and a large fuel truck arrived. So now, we again have full tanks with more than enough for another 1,100km.

We decided that we did not want to spend any more time in Reims. Fortunately we had visited it briefly last year with our daughter and son- in- law, so had taken in the major tourist sights. Instead we travelled a short distance along the canal to the small town of Sillery where we visited the Bellevue War cemetery. Here 11,300 white memorials mark the graves of French soldiers who died during the First World War. This is only one of 19 such cemeteries in this area and it is very confronting to see the line after line of white graves marking the last resting place of these men. Some are Christian, marked by a cross; some Jewish with a star of David; some Muslim with a crescent. Perhaps there are others which we did not notice. During almost the entire war, German and French soldiers opposed each other in this 10 square kilometre area. It seems to have been a stalemate until in 1918 the United States became involved and tipped the balance towards the Allies. 94,000 French were killed in a three month period in this small area of 10 square km.

Next stop was Beaumont and now we are in the Montagne de Reims Champagne area. There are some Champagne houses in Beaumont itself, but we rode up to Verzy, a Grand Cru town on the slopes of the Montagne de Reims with a beautiful view over the valley. Our route took us through the vineyards, between the vines of Roederer and Veuve Cliquot. We enjoyed being on our bikes again. While in Verzy we visited the Church and attended a Service for the blessing of the Wine Harvest. About thirty of the congregation brought to the altar laden baskets of grapes, which were put together in big tubs, to be blessed. We don't know what happens to them next- maybe there is a special Parish vintage? Several children contributed their smaller baskets full. It was a very friendly gathering. We were included in the greetings and asked where we were from- much surprise when we answered "Australia". We were probably "rubbing shoulders" with some of the great wine growers from Champagne.

Turning into the Canal lateral to the Marne we entered another Champagne area, the Marne Valley with towns including Ay and Mareuil sur Ay which together have about 60 Champagne houses. This whole area is very pretty with the Marne River bubbling along close to the Canal. Many houses have large grounds and the towns themselves very attractive. The area seems to have won the Fleury award this year and certainly there are flowers everywhere and beautifully decorated bridges and lightpoles.

We are next to a chateau and adjacent to a park full of huge trees. People- mainly elderly- come to collect the fallen nuts. There are swans around the boats. The cygnets of spring have almost grown to full size though their beaks have not yet brightened to red.

The family on the barge next to us seem to be experts at creating their own comfortable space. They have erected a small picket fence on the grass near their barge, together with potplants on the corners; they mowed the grass and raked the leaves within this private space. We have seen people on long- term live- aboard barges do this, but these people have just arrived here and seem to be on holidays- a home away from home.

Walking around Tours sur Marne we found a very modern and unusual building. This is an ecologically friendly primary school built of wood with solar panels and other energy saving devices. There is a meter which shows the energy situation. With the sun shining and the school occupied only by teachers preparing the the start of the school year, the building was putting back 150% of the energy it used.

Pictures show:

Our tidy neighbour

The Necropolis

People arrive for the blessing of the grape harvest

Grand Cru vines (the very best!)

Penny cycles through the vines

Vineyards along the canal

The Eco School

This tug used to pull barges through the Billy tunnel (2.3km). We went through on our own now that there is ventilation in the tunnel.

A balloon flies over us while moored in Reims. They would have had a fantastic view.

Best Regards, Penny and David