World War 1
Since leaving Toul we have been following the German- French front of World War 1. This beautiful, fertile and now tranquil countryside was the scene of very heavy fighting during 1916 and a continued stand- off until the war's end in 1918. Nine villages were totally destroyed and never rebuilt.
The bridge crossing the Meuse at the town of St Mihiel south of Verdun was held by the Germans and the 2,500 people of the town were held prisoner for 50 months. Stenay to the North of Verdun as well as various other towns in the area were also held by the Germans. Verdun, thanks to the excellent fortifications and citadel built by Vaubon in the 17th century, was able to hold out for the entire period of the war even though, seen as crucial to the German advance, it was heavily bombarded during that time. No trees survived. During the war 800, 000 men lost their lives here, many of them during the Battle of Verdun from February to December 1916.
At a crossroad in a nearby town, Consenvoye, signs point to local French, German and American War cemeteries and at Dun sur Meuse a plaque commemorates the American Army taking the bridgehead in 1918.
With this confronting evidence of war it is appropriate that the Worldwide Centre for Peace has been established in what was previously the Bishop's Palace in Verdun. We visited this memorial as well as experiencing the 7kms of tunnels of the Citadel by being driven around in a small train, seeing 3D displays and re- enactments of life in the underground fortress.
These towns are far more than World War 1 memorials. St Mihiel is noted as the home of a school of Religious Art of the 16th Century led by sculptor Ligier Richier. Beautiful examples of his work have been restored and are on open display in the ancient churches for which they were created. Verdun too has a very old Cathedral, dating back to 990. Though damaged during World War 1 (and 11) it has been carefully restored.
Best Regards,
Penny and Dave
