Barging on ANJA

Lyon is the biggest city (1.8 million) we have visited in Anja. We were worried because each of our sources of information informed us about the lack of security there, with warnings not to leave boats unattended unless there were other skippers around to  keep an eye out. After our experience at Chalon where we could find nowhere to tie up, then having David's phone stolen in Jassans, we were quite apprehensive as we cruised down the Saone towards its most Southern point, and the most southerly of our destinations.

Entering Lyon we were rather surprised to see kilometres of good quays lining the banks of the riverfor over 5 kilomtres, altogether different from Chalon.  Most quays had good vertical sides and well- placed rings and bollards. Some had commercial barges tied to them but, except in an old and crowded port area, there was just one recreational barge there. We were about to tie up near it when we saw a "no mooring" sign so we continued to the end of the Saone and into the Rhone, looking for possibilities.

We tried the new Port de Plaisance but with no success. The Capitaine thinks that the planners got their figures wrong. Most boats wanting a mooring are over 12metres, the maximum pen size. The place sits virtually empty while he turns away potential users because they are oversize. If you are lucky you might get one of two spots at the end of an arm, but both were taken when we checked yet there was only one "correct" sized boat there.

In continuing our tour down the rivers we found a fuel barge and a chandlery so filled up with diesel and replenished supplies of our household (red) diesel. There was a chandlery attached, which was also most welcome. It was bigger and cheaper than the ones we intended to visit in St Jean de Losne so we bought some more hard fenders and long line needed for towing through some of the tunnels to the North of us.

As we headed North back up the Saone were were delighted to find that two boats had tied up at Quai du Mal Joffre, a long quay right in the middle of town. We joined them there and by night there were half a dozen barges along the quay. All were staying a couple of days so we had created our own secure environment. It is amazing that we can go into the centre of a large town and tie up right in the middle. A legacy of when everything was centred on the rivers. We had "Old Lyon" on one bank and "New Lyon" on the other bank.

After a quiet and peaceful night we explored Lyon, a handsome town with tall, impressive buildings including an opera house in the main part of the city on the East bank and on the West Bank "Old Lyon" dating back to the town of Lugdunum established by the Romans in 43BC on the top of the hill near the river. We caught the funicular up there, an experience in itself. The remains of Roman buildings are still quite obvious and in fact the amphitheatre was being set up for a performance while we were there.

There was a marvellous old clock in the Cathedral. From memory, it was over 500 yesars old. It was capable of playing about a dozen long tunes and also had figurines which danced and played at certain times of the day. A most amazing instrument and still in full working order.

That afternoon we had an SMS to tell us that our first grandchild, a daughter had arrived. Our daughter Wendy had finished work three weeks early to have a break and prepare for this wonderful event, but Mary came after six days including the long weekend! Still at 3.3kgs she is a good size and the birth went well. Penny can't wait to cuddle her when she arrives back on July 2nd for a two week "baby" trip.

As this was the turn around spot for Anja, we headed back up to Jassans-Riottier, pleased that we had not cancelled our plan to visit Lyon.

Pictures show various aspects of Lyon:

Notre Dame basilica (high above the city)
Lyon Horlogue
150AD foundations of oldest Christian Church outside Rome
Huge fountain symbolising the four great rivers of France (the horses)
Lyon Opera House
Old organ- St Nizier
St Nizier Church


Best Regards,
Penny and Dave