The Saone River
The last lock on the Canal du Centre is 10.8 metres, our deepest to date. It differs also in having a lock gate which folds upwards and which is the only non- automatic lock on the Canal du Centre. David had applied the final coat of marine enamel to the aft roof a short time before going through the lock. This was a bit of a problem as we had to pass under the huge, dripping gate. However, we waited as long as possible and the drips were not too bad for the roof.
Very soon we were turning onto the Saone River, our first river since we left the Seine five canals ago. We almost felt lost in this broad expanse which is several hundreds of metres across but soon realised we needed our wits about us as we came across huge commercial barges carrying freight and equally huge passenger boats several storeys high. Anja likes the broader expanse and goes much faster with the same engine revolutions. Also, there are only 5 locks in the 142 kilometres between Chalon and Lyon, so we will be able to move along without too many interruptions. The passenger ships are about 140metres long and we even encountered a push-tow combination of two 140metre barges (ships, really, at 5,000tonnes each) linked together to make a 10,000tonne 280metre long ship. We were in a little bit of trouble at the first Saone lock because Penny, the "on deck person" was not wearing a life jacket. So, we got a bit of a roasting over a very loud public address system from the eclusier who sits in a control tower.
Our first night on the river was spent at Tournus. On the canals we had become used to finding overnight spots without too much difficulty but here on the river there are more boats and fewer suitable stopping places. Tournus was an example: we ended up with our front half attached to a pontoon and the stern tied to a pylon almost under a bridge. Still, the town was worth it, with many very old houses, a monastery dating back to the 6th century and a well- preserved Hotel- Dieu. The museum displays remnants found locally and going back to the paleolithic age. Of particular interest to us was a bronze helmet from 900BC. It was very handsome and in excellent condition. The wearer must have had a very strong neck.
From Tournus we turned into the Seille River, then back on the Saone to stop at Macon, another ancient town with old churches and a fascinating museum. At Macon we could not see any space on the quay so gratefully accepted an offer from a bigger barge to raft up along side him. Half an hour later, along came Ian and Helen Potter on Sundancer II, an Aussie yacht,fellow memebers of the Coastal Cruising Club of Australia. With no obvious mooring for them either, we sought and were granted permission for them to raft up too. Ian and Helen have been travelling around the world and are now making their way through France from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic. We have been in touch by email so it was not altogether a surprise to meet up here, but we did not expect to actually have a raft- up of CCC members for the June long weekend on a river in the South of France.
At Macon we farewelled Penny's sister who caught the TGV which took 1 hour and 40 minutes to travel over 400 kilometres to Paris.
Photos show:
140m cruise liner Tournus The Saone Tournus main street A biggie! Eglise St Valerian 11th Century Eglise St Philibert Wood carving circa 1400 Beautiful organ (just missed the free recital) Hotel de Dieu (commenced 17th century) Book of hours 14th Century Bronze helmet 3,000yrs old from river bed Swords from over 3,000 years ago (from river) 10.8m lock Canal du Centre
Best Regards, Penny and Dave
