The Happy Lock-keepers
One of the enjoyable aspects of cruising the waterways is the variety of Eclusiers (lock-keepers) and learning something of their lives. Nearly all of them are really enthusiastic, interesting and helpful.
So, here are a couple of short stories:
1. We had one jolly eclusier for a total of five locks. Now, that is a considerable number of locks for one person to handle. (normal is 1-3). He was very much on the plump side and chain-smoked cigars. He was one of those people who has been an eclusier for decades. When we stopped over night at Nargis, we had negotiated a 10am start the next morning (so I could do some epoxying on the roof- there is too much dew early on). Well, the dew was not going to dissipate in time and we noticed the eclusier readying the lock gates. We asked if we could leave earlier, but he was very apologetic and explained that he had a commercial barge to see through the five canals but that we could go straight after. In the mean time, he explained that we could go to the Boulanger and buy wonderful baguettes and cakes to keep us occupied. I did not have the heart to explain I had already been there a couple of hours before.
Anyway, we did get going and at the next lock, the eclusier explained that a friend lived there (at the lock-keeper's cottage) and that she had been to Australia (Surfer's Paradise). This explained the "Kangaroos 25km" sign in her lounge window. She also had the flags of a number of countries high on a pole next to the lock. No Australia! The Eclusier asked if we had a spare flag. We did have one and it was very suitable. Hegave it to the lady from the cottage whoi then ran out to the chook-house, and he explained she was getting us fresh eggs. He would not open the lock gates until the eggs were collected and duly delivered. We had some of them for lunch that very same day!
2. Most locks are manually operated. Some use wheels, others levers, others chains. Very few (except the large river locks) on the canals are electric/hydraulic. Well, today we came to a flight of four automatic/electric locks. Very strange- the first one did not have a red or green traffic light. We went into the lock, tied up and pushed the lever to activate the lock. Nothing. Everything was dead. A couple of VNF employees shouldering pick-axes turned up and suggested we move further forward in the lock. Still nothing. Then some other guys turned up, apologised and said that there was a National Power Failure and that was why nothing worked. But, "not to worry, we have a generator and will get the lock working". The bad news was that there was only a single generator for all four locks and that they would have to transport it between locks. There was also another boat going the other way which would also need the generator. The generator was indeed quite large and required two people to push (on wheels) and three to push up into the small van for transportation. They also explained that two later locks would be closed next day (which we knew) but that there was a very good market in the next town as we would likely be stuck for a couple of days!
Well, we finally got through the locks (including those destined for closure the following day) but it took a long while. At one lock, they could not make anything work despite the generator. One guy was assigned to keep us amused while the others slaved away. At every lock, the tow path was on the opposite side to the equipment, so they would drive to one side of the lock, unload the generator, push it over the lock gates, then connect it and run it. Then back to the other side and into the van again. On the last lock, rather alarmingly, the lock gates opened for us to exit, then closed on us when we were 2/3 of the way through! Almost a disaster but we accelerated and scraped out with the gates trying to squash us. Foirtunately our solid rubber fenders prevented disaster. But a fibreglass boat could have been severelyt damaged.
When we got to the last lock of the day, we asked the eclusier if we could start the next day at 10am rather than the normal 9am. Sure, he said, then rang the following eclusier to organise it. At that stage, he found out that a bridge was being assembled the following day and that two locks would be closed all day. He also reminded us that the previous locks would also be closed, so we would be "stuck in the middle". The bridge work was something that had not been scheduled and no-one knew about previously. So, we are "stuck" after all, until Friday. But we are in a nice place with plenty to do tomorrow and interesting sights.
Best Regards, Dave and Penny
