The Seine
Our trip on the Seine this year was short but interesting. We needed to get from the end of the Yonne at Montereau to the start of the Loing Canal at St Mammes, a distance of 16 kilometres with only one lock. The guide book suggested contacting the lockkeeper on the radio but we did not think our limited French would do the job.
We had already observed the size and the frequency of big commercial barges in this section so were pleased to see none when we set off. Once we reached the lock we could see that it was closed to us and that a barge was in there already, coming towards us. All we had to do was wait for it to come out, then we could go in. Twenty minutes later we were still waiting then we could see another barge apporaching to join the first in the lock: the keepers prefer to cut down the number of times they raise and lower the water. They will hold a boat if they know another is coming. There was plenty of radio chatter, presumably the other drivers telling him of their approach.
The waiting continued so long that two large commercial barges came up behind us. As they have priority we pulled out of the queue and reconciled ourselves to an even longer wait. No lock we had so far seen would accommodate us all.
Finally after over an hour the lock gates opened and three huge barges exited. Our spirits lifted- if they all fitted in, surely we would be OK with the two also waiting. We confidently lined up behind the other two and obeying the green light entered the lock to find a huge area, 180 metres long by 11.4 metres wide; the two barges in front of us were side by side, so we had masses of room to tie up. The lock operated quite quickly so we were on our way an hour and a half after arriving for the lock. We were pleased it was the only one on we needed to negotiate on this busy waterway.
We soon reached the town of St Mammes, described by the guide books as a major barging town as it lies at the junction of the Seine River, the Loing River and Canal and not far from the Yonne. This will be our furthest point North for a while and we are onlyt 75km from Paris. The books were right about the number of barges lining the banks of the River and Canal, many being lived on, some for sale and others apparently waiting for the next job. We were able to tuck ourselves behind one of these barges on the Town Quay.
The town itself was quiet. Perhaps in years gone by, the barging town was raucous at night but not so now. We were too late for the Museum of Barging but could nevertheless see some of its display on windows which displayed the history of barging both for those inside and outside the building.
Regards, Penny and Dave
Photos are of a sunken barge (sadly, not uncommon). Sunset at the junction of the Loing and Seine. One of the 100 metre barges on the Seine. A container barge. Sand mining on the Yonne.
