Leaving Tonnerre tomorrow
We have been in the old town of Tonnerre for a day and a half and will leave in the morning for a short trip to Saint Florentin. Since stopping at Montbard for a couple of days to rest and sight see, we have been to Ravieres, Buffon and Tanlay.
Montbard was an industrial centre for Burgundy and France for several hundred years. First, the monks invented the first hydraulic forge (in the world) at Abbeye Fontenay. Later, the renowned naturalist Buffon, built a refinery and water driven forges on the river nearby. We visited these and found them very interesting. An abundance of charcoal and iron ore in the hills kept the refinery and forges supplied.
The Renaissance Chateau of Tanlay was an interesting stop. We just made it for the last guided tour of the day. If we missed out, there would have been a day and a half wait until it was next open. "Sorry, no internal photographs allowed" was a first as nearly everywhere allows photographs though often no flash.
Here in France, nothing is open with totally regular hours. You never know before hand what will be open when. It is a little like the midday situation where shops and other services close down for anything from 1hr (eg locks) to 2.5hrs (some Super Marches).
There has been a huge increase in the number of barges- particularly fiberglass rental barges. Many of these are driven by people who are less than certain about what to do and how to do it. We have been travelling "two up" for a couple of days. Usually with a smaller barge in front. They are usually rather fearful (with good cause) of our big bowsprit hovering ominously over them.
Yesterday, the barge in front left the lock (which we were descending) and we were close behind. A rental boat had charged up, trying to get into the now vacated lock. Except we were still in it! We gave a blast on our powerful klaxon and he came to a stop (fortunately) and we left without concern. However, when we looked back, Penny noted he was broadside to the lock and stuck across the gates. He probably learned a lesson and fortunately, no harm was done. On another section, we moved over to allow two barges to pass in the other direction and ran aground! We were nowhere near the side of the canal but the water level in that section was very low. Nothing harmed except some paint underneath and that is being re-done in a few months.
Until yesterday, we did not see anything particularly remarkable plying the waters of the canal and rivers. Then, we saw a strange craft ahead- a rowing boat! A Swedish man was rowing it, from a standing position. He also had a mast and could undoubtedly set a sail if there was wind (no wind and it was raining). He called out "nice boat" to us as we crossed and you can see a photo below.
Then, after we were settled in Tonnerre, this beautiful small boat pulled in. It is solar-electric powered, with panels on the roof. As the owner observed, he could fit it into our Saloon! He is a boat builder in Germany and built the craft 14 years ago. It is beautifully made with glistening varnish work. He and his brother towed it by car from Germany to Dijon and are heading for one of the other Canals. They went off this morning- no time for sightseeing. They also plugged into 240V power overnight because of the lack of sunshine plus masses of weed which keep fouling the propeller of the tiny 6metre craft. So, suddenly, we saw two unusual craft in one day.
On Friday, we will likely be in Migennes, having completed the Bourgogne Canal. We have completed 200Km with 44 to go and we have also passed through 172 locks.
We had beautiful and hot weather (31degC) in Montbard but now it is raining heavily and more like 20degC. We saw from Meteo France, that on one day last week, the highest ever was 35deg and the lowest for the same day (in a different year) was -4.8! So, we are in a time of year that goes from cool to very warm and cycles between the two extremes.
Best Regards,
Dave and Penny
